INDUSTRY INSPO Isabel Marant’s Chaotic Fever Dream For SS 2021 Ready-To-Wear Collection
When the lights came up on Isabel Marant’s Spring/Summer 2021 ready-to-wear collection, a writhing sea of dancers leapt to life in their best fever dream party attire. It wasn’t an overly unexpected addition, after a similar effect was implemented earlier in the year for Dior’s 2021 Cruise collection, albeit with a less vivid palette.
Similar to the response that Dior received, the discordance of dancers was met with some praise and equal amounts of frustration. Tribes of monochromatic dancers stalked the models around the catwalk, at first quietly behind, then later breaking into spasmodic glee upon exit. The series of chaotic formations included running or flipping in front of the models while wearing Cindy Lauper-esque activewear that mimicked the colour spectrum of each garment that appeared as the show progressed. Shots between the models’ walks unintentionally showed three or four models subtly pulling at the garments as they exited the catwalk, perhaps a suggestion of ill-fitting garments, which unwittingly added to the chaos of the ordeal.
It was quite apparent that the show was a well-meaning snub to the current pandemic-induced climate, a global shift that has engendered multitudinous chaotic changes. However, reports came to light that social distancing in the audience was not observed, a statement also corroborated by Vogue’s review of the show and deemed as not “a very good idea”.
It is a shame that the designs were presented through the desire to make a performative statement, rather than in a format that showcased their brilliance. The collection’s colour palette progression is intriguing and is a thoughtful assembly of design, with standouts including a stunning fuchsia bolero that pays homage to the mutton sleeve, and a very wearable white ensemble with a statement studded belt that would be an outstanding addition to any wardrobe.
All in all, Marant’s new collection is overshadowed by both the performative chaos on the catwalk, and the undercurrent of actual chaos that surrounds, unfortunately obscuring the designs that undeniably possess such potential.
Images Sourced: Alessandro Lucioni / Gorunway.com